A few yards down the road from Dharamsala’s Tibetan Delek Hospital, an imposing metal gate opens onto a labyrinthine complex at the heart of Gangkyi. A strong aroma of dried plants and the characteristic odour of burning juniper leaves (shugpa) diffuse through the Mentsikhang courtyard. The compound looks deserted at first, with only a few children chasing bicycle wheels in the dust. The soft rumble of large copper pill makers is heard in the distance. Looking up to the quarters where staff live and hold their consultations however, one soon becomes aware of a quiet buzz of activity. Patients disappear